Birding in the Rockies
By Steve Hunter and Viviana Wolinsky
We were skiers long before we were committed birders. We admired the majestic vistas of the Colorado Rockies as we ascended the ski lifts at various resorts, and toyed with the idea of returning in the summer months. But birding put air under the wings of that fledgling thought.
With the added incentive of birding, we’ve returned a number of times in the summer months both to the slopes we had skied down and to surrounding areas near or not quite so near.
One of our nemesis birds was the White-tailed Ptarmigan, a high-altitude grouse that spends its entire life cycle above timberline in the tundra of the mountain west – the only species in North America to do so. Looking at its range map, we saw only a handful of small areas, dots even, in the lower 48. One of the larger of these small range splotches is in the northern Colorado Rockies. Drilling down in eBird, we recognized that Loveland Pass, which lies smack on the Continental Divide, was one of the few areas where the bird was somewhat regularly sighted. So several ski trips saw us eschewing the Eisenhower Tunnel (the longest mountain tunnel and highest point on the Interstate Highway System) and instead braving the curvy two-lane highway to the even higher 11,900’ Loveland Pass in search of the White-tailed Ptarmigan. The birding gods never smiled down on us at Loveland Pass, though.
Those birding gods were kinder to us in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). On our first visit, though, the birding gods greeted us not with a smile but with a smirk. Was that little blob on the horizon that we saw in the scope and on the blown-up photo a rock or a White-tailed Ptarmigan? (Reasonable minds disagree….) The next visit to RMNP, however, left no doubt, as we were graced with the sight of three White-tailed Ptarmigans, including a male who flew not far over our heads, vocalizing.
Hiking above the tree line elsewhere has rewarded us with memorable moments, like the time we hiked the Shrine Mountain trail above Vail Pass, where we crossed large meadows full of wildflowers, vocalizing Pine Grosbeaks seemingly in every direction, and a pair of Canada Jays who appeared to fly over to us just to see what we were up to. Higher up, this trail reaches a ridge that affords views of 14,000-footers in the distance.
Another interesting aspect of both the western slope of the RMNP and the Eagle River valley areas is the opportunity to see the Colorado River in different states than the famous behemoth of the Grand Canyon. Its headwaters lie on the western side of the RMNP, with Highway 40 following its course as a modest mountain river west to Kremmling, where we turn north to head to Steamboat Springs.
From Avon, a day trip took us to another part of the Colorado River, where wide valleys, ranches, side canyons with American Dipper streams, and a freight train right-of-way are the only features one sees at the southwest end of the river valley where the Colorado joins the Eagle River at Dotsero along the I-70 corridor. However, further north the river has carved a narrow way through red rock, to the point where both the highway and the railroad share the same narrow dirt grade.
Since our first summer Colorado Rockies trip, we’ve had the good fortune to visit the area a number of times. Besides those tantalizing ptarmigans, some of the most memorable birds we’ve encountered include Dusky Grouse, Red-naped Sapsucker, American Three-toed Woodpecker, Woodhouse’s Scrub-Jay, and Brown-capped Rosy-Finch.
Now, this summer, we’re embarking on a grand new adventure in the Rockies—stitching together the areas that we’ve enjoyed separately on previous trips.
On July 13, we’re taking off for Denver and will spend the afternoon and early evening birding our way to Rocky Mountain National Park. We’ll rise early to get the best shot of revisiting our former nemesis, the White-Tailed Ptarmigan, and continue birding in RMNP and along the northern route to Steamboat Springs before settling in that lovely cowboy ski town for the next four nights and days of birding. Then on to the Vail Valley and several more days of new birding vistas. Driving back to Denver on July 21 is just a great excuse to enjoy yet more birding sites.
Two of our friends – or two people who we’re sure will become our friends – will join us. Maybe that’s you?
We’re providing air transportation, accommodations, driving, and our experience with birding the Rockies as a prize in the 2024 Birdathon Adventure Auction to benefit Golden Gate Bird Alliance. This guided trip in July could be your easiest birding vacation ever—just grab your binoculars and leave the planning and logistics to us! For more information, see the description and itinerary on the Birdathon Auction web site. Bidding will open on May 5 and end on May 20.
Steve Hunter and Viviana Wolinsky met while working at the University of California and first bonded over their mutual love of travel. These days, they’re happiest when they can combine travel with their passion for birding. When at home, you might find Steve teaching GGBA classes (Intermediate Birding; Sparrows), Viviana working with her co-compiler, Dawn Lemoine, on the Oakland Christmas Bird Count, or the pair leading GGBA field trips/classes both locally and in the Sierras.