To Etosha and Beyond
Text and photos by Eric Schroeder
When I began working with the GGBA Travel Program a year ago, I didn’t envision that one of the benefits might be designing programs that I’d want to go on myself. But when I began to talk with Chris Lotz, who runs Birding Ecotours, one of our GGBA travel partners, I realized that several trips he was proposing appealed to me. Most surprising was one in Namibia and Botswana. I was just getting ready to go to Namibia and I didn’t think I’d want to go back a year later. But Namibia is a special place, and Etosha National Park is one of the great national parks, not just in Africa but worldwide.

One of the things that I love about Etosha is that you have two different ways to experience the mammals and birds of the park. During the day, you can plan a route in the park that allows you to visit a series of waterholes—if things are slow at one waterhole, then you can move onto another and check for action there. But it can also be rewarding to sit at a waterhole—even if the action seems to have finished (or perhaps hasn’t yet begun!)

My favorite example of this occurred on my first visit to Etosha in 2013. It was late in the afternoon and my wife Susan, friend Ian, and I decided to visit one last waterhole before returning to camp. It proved to be a good decision. When we pulled into the parking area, there were about 20 cars arrayed in an arc around the viewing area. In the middle of a muddy pond two old bull elephants seemed to be fighting. But after closer look, we realized they were actually playing—spraying mud on one another, locking trunks, each determined to make the other even muddier than he already was. An amazing display of what appeared to be affection between two old friends.

After about fifteen minutes, the elephants seemed to tire of their sport, and each ambled off in a different direction. At that point, almost all the cars in the viewing area started up at once—it was late and the rest camps lock their gates at sundown, and no one wanted to be locked out of camp. But we weren’t very far from camp and, besides, I noticed something out of the corner of my eye as the cars began streaming out—two young male lions trotting towards the waterhole.…