The Westernmost WC in Europe: Birding Iceland
By Bob Carloni
My wife Linda and I had wanted to visit Iceland for many years, even before we started birding. Our opportunity came in July, when we joined four other Golden Gate Bird Alliance members and eight other birders from Portland, Minnesota, and points east on an eleven-day Golden Gate Bird Alliance trip there. Led by Ivan Phillipsen and Patty Newland of Wild Latitudes, it was an amazing trip in an amazing land. We sought out not just birds but also interesting plants and geologic and cultural features.
Iceland is the original “land of ice and fire.” Sitting atop the mid-Atlantic Ridge, a tectonic spreading zone, it is a country of vast lava fields that have been sculpted by glaciers. Although located just south of the Arctic Circle, the weather is moderated by the Gulf Stream. Temperatures were typically in the 60s. The sky was often overcast and dressing in layers was a must. Those of us who live near the San Francisco Bay felt right at home.
The number of bird species in Iceland is small (only 77), but the quantity—masses of nesting puffins, razorbills, Northern Fulmar, kittiwake, various sorts of murres and guillemots, and Arctic Terns—more than compensates.

Our trip began in Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital and largest city. Just twenty-five minutes from our centrally located hotel, we visited a pond and a shoreline that yielded several interesting species, including a Purple Sandpiper, Common Shelduck, and Long-Tailed Ducks.
The next day we journeyed along the famous Golden Circle, a well-known route not far from Reykjavik. Our first stop was Thingvellir, a national park on the site of the world’s oldest continuous parliament, which was established in 930 CE. Here we saw White Wagtails and Red-Throated Loons in breeding plumage. We visited several notable geological sites: The east edge of the North American tectonic plate; Geysir, the one for which all other geysers are named; and the incredible Gullfoss Falls.

Note 1: In July, the sun “sets” ( it gets a little dusky) at 1 a.m. and rises at 4 a.m. Even the best blackout shade leaks enough light at the edges to make sleeping difficult at times.
From Reykjavik, we proceeded in vans nicknamed for our guides (the “I-van” and the “Patty Wagon”) through the Snaefellsnes Peninsula on the western side of Iceland.…